![]() On earlier unibody cars like Camaros, Novas, Mustangs, and Challenger/'Cudas, you may have to live with the offset unless there are minitubs in the car's future. ![]() This creates a tight clearance on the outboard of the passenger side and inboard on the driver side. Our experience with GM cars is that the rear axle tends to be offset to the passenger side. If the car is more than 1/2 to 3/4 inch offset, consider loosening all the body-mount bolts (on a full-frame car) and shifting the body to make it more square over the chassis. This is extremely common with older musclecars. Often, the body does not sit squarely on the chassis, reducing outer wheelwell clearance on one side and inner wheelwell clearance on the opposite side. Always measure both sides of the car when determining maximum tire size. One big reason is that the sidewalls on these 16-, 17-, and 18-inch tires tend to stay put, unlike tall, two-ply wrinkle-wall drag tires that move around a bunch. If the rim width is too wide, you run the risk of the tire. For example, on a bicycle wheel the rim is a large hoop attached to the outer ends of the spokes of the wheel that holds the tire and tube. If the rim width is too narrow, you pinch the tire in and cause it to balloon more in cross-section. It makes up the outer circular design of the wheel on which the inside edge of the tire is mounted on vehicles such as automobiles. Also consider that even wider performance-oriented alloy rims are coming. The rim is the 'outer edge of a wheel, holding the tire'. Id think youd still reap some of the benefits. A 28mm tire on a 19mm rim is going to be VERY lightbulb-shaped, a 28mm tire on a 23-24mm rim (I hear the Pacentis actually 24mm) should be a lot less so. ![]() Stuffing fat tires with short, stiff sidewalls under the rearend is a little easier. Well, Id think there are varying degrees of lightbulb-iness. ![]()
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